OOIR: Observatory of International Research

Papers

(The TQCC of Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture is 0. The table below lists those papers that are above that threshold based on CrossRef citation counts [max. 250 papers]. The publications cover those that have been published in the past four years, i.e., from 2021-11-01 to 2025-11-01.)

Article	Citations
Buildings in Belgium, Buildings in Oil, Buildings in Silk, A tableaux by Lucy McKenzie	22
Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion	15
LOVE Fashion: In Search of Myself	14
Deborah Turbeville: Photocollage	10
Singapore Fashion Histories – Developing an Open-Access Fashion History Website	9
Fair Data is the New Black: Online Shopping, Data Leaks, and Broadening the Understanding of Sustainable Fashion	7
Transnational Fashion Sustainability: Between and Across the Gulf and the UK	6
Clothescapes of Refugeehood: Emma Lee’s The Significance of a Dress (2020)	6
The Layers of Taiwanese Identity: Exploring Fashion Designers’ Cultural Expression	5
Sustainability and the Fashion Media: Micro-Utopia, Social Dreaming and Hope in the Margins	5
@JessicaOutOfTheCloset: Intersections of Vintage Styles, Gender, Queerness, and Disability in Online Spaces	5
The Boubou and Post-Colonial African Musical Performances: Ami Koïta, Bi Kidude, and Sibongile Khumalo	5
Print & Paint, 350 Years of Flowers on Cotton	5
Layers of Repair—On Mending, Care, and Aesthetics of Affect	4
Clothing and Expressive Revolution: Wearing Jeans in Socialism	4
“I Do What I Do to Drive Change”: The Social-Symbolic Work of Sustainable Fashion Influencers	4
Shades and Lengths of Change: Exploring Fashion Changes in Post-Soviet Azerbaijan	4
Real Clothes, Real Lives: 200 Years of What Women Wore, the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection	4
The Moral Dilemma in Fashion: Using the Prisoner’s Dilemma Game on Animals and the Environment	4
Book Review: A Guide to Traditional Yi Costumes and Ornaments	3
A Reparative Space: Theorizing Decolonizing and Freedom Pathways in Fashion Education	3
Transcriptions and Relative Novelty: Virgil Abloh’s Design Strategies	3
British Dandies: Engendering Scandal and Fashioning a Nation	3
Aldo Fallai for Giorgio Armani, 1977–2021	3
Remaining Difference. Fashion, Sexual Difference, and Galliano’s Poetics of the Cut	2

Samlingen	2
Letter from the Editors	2
Signifying African Adornment: An Interview with Ami Doshi Shah and Lafalaise Dion	2
Letter from the Editor	2
The Marchesa Casati as Fashion Plate and Fashion Muse	2
Letter from the Editors	2
Fashion\|Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion	2
Sartorial Strategies of Female Punks in Malaysia’s Socio-Religious Landscape	2
Creative Adaptations in Africa: Creating Cosmopolitan Fashion in Nigeria	1
Shimmering Aesthetics: Breaking the Gender Binary	1
Upcycling with Material Debris: Nurturing the Creative Process through Responsible Handling of Waste Materials	1
Letter from the Editors	1
Revitalizing Meisen Kimono in Chichibu through Storytelling—Craft, Community, and Sense-Making	1
Personal Branding through Perfume in the Middle East: Investigating the Role of Fragrance in Self-Presentation, Impression Management, and Cultural Identity	1
Africa Fashion in Focus: Three Objects from the Exhibition	1
Reviving the Silenced; Defining Vegan Fashion and Classifying Materials of Animal Origin	1
From Shatnez to Upcycling: Zoom in on Sustainable Fashion in Israel and in Judaism	1
Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto	1
M&Others Fashion and Motherhood	1
Beauty and the Politics of Piety: The Phenomenon of Muslim Women’s Fashion Trends in Indonesia	1
Adire Translocalities	1
Letter from the Editor	1
Dressing Biopolitics, or Can Dress Be Considered a Biopolitical Dispositive?	1
Introduction: Cross-Dressing	0
The Datafication and Quantification of Fashion: The Case of Fashion Influencers	0
Time to treat the climate and nature crisis as one indivisible global health emergency	0
In Genderqueer Closets: Challenging Gender Binarism through Embodied Narratives of Affect and Style	0
Interwoven Threads: A Quantitative Visual Analysis of Taiwan’s Tn̂g-sann and Qipao	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Letter from the Editor	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Innovative Upcycling: The Creative Potential of Collaborating with Degraded Materials	0
Westminster Menswear Archive	0
From Secondhand to Invisible Hand: Methods of Manipulating Object Biographies on The Realreal Online Marketplace	0
Carnivalesque Practices and Cyborg Esthetics: A Study of the Grotesque of Demna	0
Nottingham Trent University Lace Archive: A Tantalizing Array of Gaps Within a Complex Web of Threads	0
Social Fabric	0
New Luxury Ideologies: A Shift From Building Cultural to Social Capital	0
Dressed in Time: A World View	0
Sur les routes de Samarcande. Merveilles de soie et d’or (On the Routes of Samarkand. Marvels of Silk and of Gold) *Sur les routes de Samarcande. Merveilles de soie et*	0
Fashioning Dirt: Opening a New Discourse	0
The Material Film Costume: Encountering the Mink Dress of Lady in the Dark (Leisen, 1944)	0
Djurdja Bartlett	0
With License to Change: Upsala Coat Factory, Pierre Cardin, and the Democratization of Fashion, Sweden 1940–1970	0
Radical Pedagogies: Right Here, Right Now!	0
Symbiosis: A New Paradigm for Understanding How Bodies and Dress Come Together	0
Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing	0
We the Makers Sustainable Fashion Prize 2025 and Quilts, Wool, Use	0
Fashion & Interiors. A Gendered Affair (MoMu Antwerp, March 29–August 3, 2025)	0
Deviance or Devotion: Women Dressed as Men in Late Medieval England	0

Dressed: Fashionable Dress in Aoteoroa New Zealand 1840 to 1910	0
“His Ghost Walks Among Us Still”: Troubling the Sartorial Legacy of Beau Brummell	0
Queering Fashion’s Pathologies in Killing Eve ¹	0
Cabinet Stories: Curators in the Community	0
John Waters: Pope of Trash	0
Arkadius. Great Passions. Confrontations	0
The Cambridge History of Global Fashion	0
Letter from the Editor	0
Re-Defining Fashion Cities: African Fashion Designers Between Local and Global Networks	0
Aesthetic Labor in Religious Contexts: Women Encountering Modest Dress in the Workplace in the UK and Saudi Arabia	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Follow Fashion: Patrick Kelly, Derrick Adams & AfroQueer Commutation	0
Dress Codes	0
Navigating Stigma through Refashioning Islamic Veiling: Muslim Women’s Sartorial De-Stigmatization Strategies in Contemporary United States	0
Orange Culture: An Interview with Adebayo Oke-Lawal	0
Threads of Change: Advancing Sustainable Fashion Through New Materialist Perspectives	0
Letter from the Editor	0
The Esthetics of Cosplay	0
Africa Fashion	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Performance Costume: New Perspectives and Methods	0
Italy, an Extraordinary Commonplace? Stereotypes and Imaginaries of Italianness in Online Communication by Fashion Brands*	0
Textile Orientalisms: Cashmere and Paisley Shawls in British Literature and Culture Textile Orientalisms: Cashmere and Paisley Shawls in British Literature and Culture ,	0
Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics	0
Fashion City: How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style	0
Wearing Free China: Gendered Diplomacy and the Politics of the Qipao in Taiwan–Australia Relations During the Global Sixties	0
“Shocking!” the Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli “Shocking!” the Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli . Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, France, July 22, 2022 – January	0
Heritage Glamor Across Oceans: Federico Forquet’s Luxe Strategy for Italian Fashion in the United States	0
Fabrics of Memory	0
Fashioning the Posthuman Body in the Anthropocene: Alexander McQueen’s The Horn of Plenty	0
Des cheveux et des poils *Des cheveux et des poils, Musée des Arts décoratifs, Paris, France, April 5 to September 17, 2023.*	0
A Dark, A Light, A Bright: The Designs of Dorothy Liebes	0
Chest-Binding Practices for Trans and Nonbinary Individuals within Different Spatiotemporalities: Redefining the Meanings of Space, Place, and Time	0
Global China	0
Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Statements	0
“Talora in Abito di Femmina, Talora di Maschio”: Roleplay in Portrait Miniature with Mica Costume Overlay, from Florence to Europe	0
Fashion’s Transnational Inequalities Socio-Political, Economic and Environmental	0
The Kabyle Dress – From Folklore to Haute-Couture Statement: Algerian Berber Artist and Fashion Designer Khadidja Hamsi (1937 – 2021)	0
The Fashion System as Sign Itself: Surprise, Seduction and the Wit of Viktor & Rolf	0
Instruments of Embodiment: Costuming in Contemporary Dance	0
Suspending Time: Matter and Memory in Madame Grès’ Pleating Technique	0
Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century	0
Cosmotechnics of Fashion: Remixology in Global African Cinema	0
Fashioning Politics and Protests: New Visual Cultures of Feminism in the United States	0
Food and Fashion	0
Two Decades of Fashion Blogging and Influencing: A Critical Overview	0
Top Boy Crossdressing: The Life of Heliogabalus in the Historia Augusta	0
Optics of Obvious Mending	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Garmenting: Costume as Contemporary Art	0
Vegan Fashion Paradox: Understanding Cognitive Dissonance in Consumer Choices	0
(Dal Cuore Alle Mani) From the Heart to the Hands: Dolce & Gabbana	0
Dress Cultures in Zambia: Interwoven Histories, Global Exchanges, and Everyday Life	0
Clothing Inside: Addressing American Prisons	0
Britain’s ‘Dark Factories’: Specters of Racial Capitalism Today	0
Picasso/Chanel	0
Bridging Fashion and Sustainability: Exploring the Cultural Impact of Vintage Clothing in Taiwan	0
Unravel: The Power and Politics of Textiles in Art	0
Gay Men’s Style: Fashion, Dress and Sexuality in the 21st Century	0
¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today	0
Beauty Regimes. A History of Power and Modern Empire in the Philippines, 1898–1941	0
Fashion Activism of Extinction Rebellion and Fashion Act Now	0
Anti-Fashion Branding: Framing Technology in Uniqlo and Allbirds	0
Fashion Statements in a Site of Conflict	0
Objects, People, Politics: From Perestroika to the Post-Soviet Era	0
Ceci n’est pas un chapeau: What is Art, and What is Fashion in Degas’s Millinery Series?	0
Backstage Matters: Designer’s Invisible Media Work in Independent Fashion Practice	0
Sewing Wool: Japanese Fashion Designers and Women’s Fashion in 1930s Taiwan	0
Artful Decoloniality: The Politics of Fashion as Art in 20th and 21st Century Vietnam	0
From Driza-Bone to Moving in Air: Reimagining Fashion Practice as Part of Environmentally Attuned Fashion Futures	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics. Past and Present	0
Lived In Bars: Deng Nan-Guang as the Vagabond-Tourist of Taiwanese Fashion Photography	0
Monte di Pietà	0
New Fashion Identity and the State in China: A Decolonial Interpretation	0
Fashion and Feeling: The Affective Politics of Dress	0
The Politics of Transnational Fashion	0
Letter from the Editors	0
The Worth Question: Addendum to ‘Exhibition Review: Victoria G. Karelias Collection of Greek Traditional Costumes’	0
Undercover—From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings during COVID-19	0

Influencers, Niche Magazines and Journalistic Practice in Italy: Toward a New Fashion Editorial System	0
Decentering Durability: Decarbonizing and Decolonizing Ideas and Practices of Long-Lasting Clothes	0
Tailoring Modernity and Wrapping Tradition: Chitenge [African Print Fabric] Class and Culture in Zambia	0
Everyday Fashion: Interpreting British Clothing Since 1600	0
Fashion Illustration History: Repairing the Links from Ukiyo-e to Shōjo Manga	0
Fashioning Global Africa: Independence to Now	0
Elvis: Direct from Graceland	0
The World is Yours : A Fashion, Textiles, and Portraiture Benediction by Bisa Butler	0
Fashion Accounts	0
Zampatti Powerhouse *Zampatti Powerhouse* , Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences, November 24 2022 − June 11 2023	0
Fashion: Seductive Play	0
Style Narrative Geographies: Black Women Making Harlem Through Fashion and Memory Work	0
Cripping Masculinities: Designing Fashion Utopias	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Elegancias and the Parisian Dream: Fashioning Latin American Elites in Early 20th Century Paris	0
“Well-Dressed” in Suits of Australian Wool: The Global Fiber Wars and Masculine Material Literacy, 1950–1965	0
“The Good Italian”: Fashion Films as Lifestyle Manifestos. A Study Based on Thematic Analysis and Digital Analytics	0
Linda Kinoshita: Rediscovering a Forgotten Japanese American Designer	0
Correction	0
Toward a Frigid Body: Minimalist Fashion and the Sinthomosexual in China	0
Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London	0
Conceptualizing Made in China for a Museum Exhibition	0
Gay Rodeos, Western Wear, and Unresolved Tensions in 21st-Century North America Cowboy Culture and Esthetics	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Statement Sleeves	0
Les Subtilités d’un Dialogue	0
Correction	0
Sargent and Fashion	0
The Peacock Revolution: Men’s Fashion from 1966 to 1970 *The Peacock Revolution: Men’s Fashion from 1966 to 1970* , Pickford’s House, De	0
Theorizing the Third Generation of Fashion Designers: The Case of Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton	0
Anna-Maria Saar: Darning Invisibility	0
In America: A Lexicon of Fashion	0
Mending in the Museum: Chronomanuality, Value, and the Ethics of Care in Textile Conservation	0
Ephemeral Matters. Into the Fashion Archive	0
The 2022 Venice Biennale: The Milk of Dreams	0
“Same-Old, Same-Old”: The Tired and Tiring Work of Retro as Celebrity Signature Style	0
Queer: Stories from the NGV Collection	0
Consumer Contextual Learning: The Case of Fast Fashion Consumption	0
“My Cherished Garment”: Rethinking Fashion, Attachment and Durability	0
Fashion Remains: Rethinking Fashion Ephemera in the Archive	0
“Being Gorgeous is a Duty!” Hegemony, Agency, and Visual Culture in Modern Argentina	0
Reviving, Reinventing and Rethinking an Indigenous Luxury Textile: Piña Cloth, and Fashion in the Philippines	0
Godna Tihar: Traditional Body Art Festival of the Gond Tribe	0
Affective Fashion Trends: Aesthetic and Digital Affects from Nostalgia to AR	0
Lasting Bonds: Understanding Wearer-Clothing Relationships through Interpersonal Love-Theory	0
Locational Fashion Cultures	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Fashion Queers	0
Crafting Sustainable Fashion: Dimensions of Care in Wearer-Clothing Relationships	0
Beyond the Monolith: Redefining African Fashion, Identity, and Design Narratives	0
Confronting the Absence of Histories, Presence of Traumas and Beauty in Museum Africa, Johannesburg	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Conceptualizing Australian First Nations Fashion, Art and Style	0
Work Attire and Work Productivity of Employees While Teleworking During the COVID-19 Pandemic	0
Dress as the Agency of Power: Ozioma Onuzulike’s Ceramic Art	0
Wearing: Art, the Body, and Distance	0
Susan Hiner, Behind the Seams: Women, Fashion, and Work in 19 ^th -Century France	0
Queen Victoria’s Banarasi Brocade: A Transcultural Approach to Royal Fashion	0
Ethnic Clothing, the Exercises of Self-Representation, and Fashioning Ethnicity in Xishuangbanna, Southwest China	0
“Sobriété, Chic, Discrétion”: Promoting Modern Jewelry and Accessories in Adam: La revue de l’homme, 1925-1940	0
Yorkshire Fashion Archive	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Iris van Herpen. Sculpting the Senses	0
Letter from the Editor	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Labor of Her Hands, Light of Her Eyes	0
Yves Saint Laurent aux Musées	0
The Fashion System’s Environmental Impact: Theorizing the Market’s Institutional Actors, Actions, Logics, and Norms	0
Letter from the Editors	0
Object Lives and Global Histories in Northern North America: Material Culture in Motion, C. 1780-1980 Object Lives and Global Histories in Northern North America: Material Culture in Mo	0
Chinese Fashion in China’s Fashion Magazines (2005-2015)	0
Elio Fiorucci	0
Fashion and Politics, The Politics of Fashion: Józef Simmler’s Portrait of Emilia Włodkowska, Society Portrait and Haute Couture	0
Becoming the ‘Sorority Girl’: Following Southern Fashion and Sorority Culture on #Rushtok	0
Unmasking the Pandemic: From Personal Protection to Personal Expression	0